My 2021 Clarity Plug-in infotainment system, as soon as it hit 20k miles, just completely started hitting the fan, so much so I cannot use side camera and rear view camera when the car starts. It'll lag 30-90 seconds behind inputs, the rear view will have odd visible screen tearing, etc. Just had the dealer replace it, but happened again. I've seen this issue on Civics and Accords before, my dealer is trying to claim it could be an issue with the amp I installed for my subwoofer, but if that were so, there would be more prevalent issues popping up/it would've shown up shortly after I got it installed lol. Anybody else have experience with this/similar issue?
The cost of a new head unit was what prompted me to purchase an extended warranty. However, in 5+ years, I've experienced no head-unit problems. How long did the replacement head unit last? Are the problems the new head unit is having exactly the same as with the original? Of course, the dealer is going to blame any mods you made that are connected to the head unit. Have you tried disconnecting the amp so you can at least demonstrate that the connection is not causing the problem. Of course, the dealer is then going to claim the amp has already damaged the head unit.
I got it installed yesterday, experienced the issue again today. Dealer manager is a good friend, he suggested disconnecting and seeing if it works. My partner just took the car and called me complaining of the same issue, describing exactly what we've been going through with it to a T. My dealer said it "technically" voids the warranty, but he said he doesn't think this issue stems from it, but it could.
It's a good thing you have a friend at the dealer. The only mods I've made to my Clarity PHEV are winter floor mats and taping a piece of paper over the D button to remind me to re-HV after I stop on a long trip. "Mr. Insightman, we're going to have to deny your warranty claim. Your battery pack died because you taped that piece of paper over the D button, which, of course, activates the traction battery to propel the vehicle."
LMAO I had to replace the terrible speaking in the Clarity, just absolutely horrid. I did that myself, but the subwoofer was professionally done. I just don't see how the amp would cause this to be frank. It's well known the processor is terrible in the head unit. I just don't think the amp is causing the issue, as I've had it in there for a year and a half now and the issue only popped up at the 20k mark. I've read some recent Civics and Accords experience issues similar to mine at that specific mileage.
Because I stopped doing long trips when the pandemic arrived, I've been driving my MINI Electric most of the time. Driving my Clarity just 1,000 miles a year now, it will take another 6 years before I hit the 20K-mile head-unit expiration distance. Sadly, by then my extended warranty will also have expired.
The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975 states that a dealer must prove that aftermarket equipment caused the need for repairs before it can deny warranty coverage. Find, read, and understand the law before you take it back to them. Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
You have gone through a process of elimination and demonstrated that neither the head unit or the amplifier is responsible. If the amplifier is just an audio device (no digital connections to the head unit) then it would seem impossible for it to have any effect like this. Besides, you disconnected it... I presume your dealer did a complete scan looking for any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes?) In thinking about ways that an Android tablet could become bogged down - What about Bluetooth, Wifi, USB? For instance, is anything connected to the USB (Like Android Auto, or Car Play)? Is your phone paired via Bluetooth? I would try to eliminate everything possible by disconnecting anything on a USB port, disabling Bluetooth, disabling WiFi. Do you have any 'accessories' other than the amplifier / speakers? If you just start the vehicle and do nothing else, is it bogged down to just select different screens or operate the radio, or does some other action need to occur (for instance, engaging reverse which activates the backup camera, or using the turn signal to turn on the side camera)? If you can find some specific action that triggers this, it might point to a component external to the head unit being responsible.
I sort of assume you've already rebooted the tablet. Correct? I mean press and hold the power while the car is on (but not driving). The unit should come up and say something like rebooting (or maybe you have to press a 'yes' to confirm, can't remember now). Anyway, definitely do reboot if you have not. I reboot the tablet about once every six months. I do this to keep it from getting slow. But I've never witnessed slowness like you described. I just mean some minor slowness in button presses. The reboot does fix that.
I vaguely remember someone here saying long ago he would research into finding a more efficient replacement for the tablet. Also, has anyone heard if there is any of those aftermarket head unit for the Clarity? I had one installed ten years and two cars ago (Mazda CX-7). It was a huge step forward from the original unit, including touch screen, navigation etc. Navi was even better than the current Garmin at Clarity. So was the resolution.
Any recommendations on the speakers you installed?, tips and tricks to remove the panels? I think I'm not going with the subwoofer but definetly need to upgrade the speakers trying to improve the sound. Also, following this thread as the tablet is one of the most annoying things of the car so I hope at some point it can be upgraded, but also to hear about the dealership response about the warranty.
