Seem to be getting to 1 bar a lot lately

There has to be something more going on. In the scenario I described, I'm coasting downhill which provides regen—not using any amount of accelerator so no power draw. Yet, the battery range and HV range both decrement.

 

Electricity is the flow of electrons. If there is no circuit for electrons to flow through, there is no electricity. When you touch the the output terminals, you have then created the circuit and thus there is electricity.

(Of course, he will never see this because I am also on his ignore list...along with untold others who dare to correct his information)

 

Heheheh he still has my skateboard, but for me.....it is ok!

 

I don't really know why I'm getting into this, but:

"Electricity is the flow of electrons. If there is no circuit for electrons to flow through, there is no electricity. When you touch the the output terminals, you have then created the circuit and thus there is electricity."

An electric field exists whenever there is a potential difference between two points (voltage difference). So I'd argue that electricity exists whether or not there is a flow of electrons. Static charge (electricity) is a good example. The electric field is there before the discharge. It can be completely removed or partially reduced with the discharge.

But again, I really don't care much about this argument.

 

Clearly, you just want to argue.

 

You are correct that the POTENTIAL for electricity exists, but not electricity. The only way to measure the difference between the two points is to use something that completes the circuit (meter e.g.).

At any rate, I still think there is some weird stuff going on when the ICE is used to somehow keep electricity from being added to a full battery during regen conditions.

 

Not only that, but you can't get 4 chevrons with the flappy paddles, either, with a fully charged battery. It will flash and default to 2 or 1, and it doesn't feel like it is even giving you that, for real.

 

Glad this definition was posted. Notice the whole first part of the definition. "Statically" means not moving (no current or discharge). And it is the first part of the definition before the word "or" and the second part relating to current flow. I think many are just confusing real power (requires current and load) and the general subject of Electricity.

If you go back and read my post, all I ever said is that Electricity can exist without the flow of electrons.

To the other topic in this thread, I don't think any of us really understands why Honda engineers decided to start the ICE to provide load to absorb regen energy when trying to regen with a full battery. I would have preferred to just disable the regen motors and use the friction brakes if the battery is full.

 

I was hoping for "phenomenologically", but alas no reward.

 

That engineering decision is definitely a head scratcher. The software has some capability to reduce regenerative energy as evidenced by observing the power/regen gauge while applying the brakes when the battery is fully charged, as compared to doing the same when the battery is partially discharged. Additionally, the manual describes when and why certain paddle selections may not be permitted. Some of those conditions include a battery that is fully charged, too hot or too cold. The car also uses only the friction brakes to come to a complete stop. Parameters do exist that reduce or disengage regenerative braking.

FWIW: We’ve always just plugged in and let the battery fully charge after every drive. Departing the house involves a steep downhill and a braking opportunity before a sharp curve. On a few occasions the brakes have been applied to avoid an undesirable wildlife encounter. The fully charged, downhill, brake routine has been performed several hundred times and the ICE has never triggered.

 

There seems to be a pattern that only the 2018s trigger the ICE on a full charge when there is a regen situation. The only posts complaining about that "feature" that I've seen here are from those of us with the first-year models. Methinks Honda did some tweaking in the BMS software that took care of the problem. If that is the case, it would have been nice if they provided a software update for us early adopters.

 

Sort of the controversial idea I have (and strongly believe) is that not all Clarity are the same. There are differences between units.
In my Clarity if I am mindful and start the heat running a couple minutes before heading anywhere, I may be able to get to the bottom of my hill without starting the engine, but often there's no avoiding it. Even with gentle break push and no paddle use.

-Dan

 

i agree with that. I have 2020 and no issues with engine starting on full battery and full regen, or busy bees, or screen lagging. Everything just perfect, like it should be.
Even hondalink lately works all the time (hard to believe, eh

 

Regen triggering the ICE and loss of EV range/battery SOC while operating in HV mode are probably the two most concrete examples of different experiences with the vehicle.

I tend to agree with your idea/theory.

There are some things we may never know, such as:
Did Honda modify the software during production and fail to provide an update for the earlier models?
Are vehicles that are performing outside of what is described in the manual, operating with flawed software that Honda has not acknowledged?

 

You nailed it. Some of the issues I see, few others have seen (and/or it may be a matter of degrees). I mean the fact that my Clarity *always* loses range in HV mode, even if I'm careful and even if I don't power-off when getting gas isn't everyone's experience. Same with gas engine starting each time down my hill even when I'm careful. And my EV range is lower than average (and yes I know how to conserve to improve it, it's not my diving behaviors).

For awhile I was frustrated, but the truth is the car is a pleasure to drive. I get enough EV range even in winter to commute all-electric, and I get very good gas mileage (about 40mpg) when on the highway. So decided to accept that mine may not be quite as good as some other units and still wonderful. I hope it keeps running good for a very long time. BTW- I did have a charger fail, replaced under warranty, that was a $4600+ repair (which didn't cost me).

 

You still talking about the car?