Wow, some guy you think is in Germany takes control of your laptop and unzips a large data file. I’d say you’re lucky if you just got a fix
Actually I downloaded and unzipped the files myself. Once esys was installed and the files were unzipped, we used teams viewer for him to remote in. I saw everything he actually did which was only within esys and took all of 2 minutes and he logged out immediately afterwards. To be fair this is the actual developer of the Bimmercode app whose name is Stephan, it's not just some random guy in Germany. If I'm already willing to pay money to use his app Bimmercode and download data from that app to my car, I would think that after contacting him for help through his support email I would also trust him that he would fix it.
Yep, was tongue in cheek and having a bit of a laugh but there wasn’t a ROFL emoji. Good you got it sorted.
AMAZING. Now, as someone from Missouri, I also like to be shown so I can learn. Can you share details of where and how to get esys and ista running? I’ve got an XP partition running on a 2010 laptop (Windows 10, never used anymore).
So your troubles had me questioning the wisdom of buying Bimmercode and making changes to my own car (once it arrives). Now I feel as if I should buy Bimmercode just to support Stephan even if I never intend to use it. That's amazing customer service. In any case, good to hear that you got things fixed.
Outstanding outcome, happy for you! Now that it’s resolved and it doesn’t sound like I’m piling on, I highly recommend doing any sort of coding via a cable. No, it’s not a 100% guarantee of avoiding issues like this, but it does - in my personal experience - reduce the probability of them occurring. Glad you can now go back to enjoying your car!
Agree with getting the enet cable, it runs a lot faster than the Bluetooth adapter and I really do believe it would've prevented this problem from happening because the connection is fully stable. Also when I think about it when the error occurred I think the ac was running while it was coding so maybe that's what caused it? Per instructions, phone needs to be airplane mode, no carplay, no connections to the car, no ac/fans running, nothing else plugged into the car before coding. For esys, I really don't know how to use it, he did it for me, my only part was that I downloaded and installed it and unzipped a pfzd data file. And he did it pretty quick, so I don't know if I could even replicate it. I wish I had recorded it because it would've been useful later, but it was 130am then and I was just desperate for it to be fixed.
But at least from this experience I did learn that you basically need a software fix, no amount of hardware shenanigans like unplugging 12v or fuses will reset anything. Hopefully that's helpful to someone in the future if they ever get an error coding. And that pretty much anything can be restored to factory settings even if it gets corrupted.
On the Clarity forum, we use the 12-Volt disconnect/reconnect reset to cure problems the car creates all by itself. It would surprise me if a car reloaded its original software settings every time the 12-Volt battery needed a jump-start.
The weird thing about the 12v thing was that I expected the car's electronics to go dead the instant I disconnected the 12v battery like every other car I've owned, but everything continued to run. Was that the case with the clarity? Somehow the car's electronics still function with the 12v leads completely off. Radio, dashboard, interior lights, headlights, etc.
That would indicate to me that the SE runs all 12v devices directly off of the 12v inverter. I wish you had attempted to drive your SE when the 12v was disconnected. This is actually very good news as it means that a deficient 12v battery will not cripple the SE and leave you stranded. Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
So what would be the point in having a12v battery? If the car can run all electronics without it? I guess I could try to disconnect the battery again and try to drive, it's actually not that difficult, two trim pieces to remove.
No, the Honda Clarity PHEV is dead when the 12-Volt battery is dead. I'm amazed your MINI didn't notice the absence of a 12-Volt battery. In cases when the 12-Volt battery is discharged, I believe every EV and PHEV that still has power in its traction battery should be able to start the vehicle and then charge the 12-Volt battery (assuming it's not defunct). Perhaps MINI's electrical engineers agree.
Not Teslas - and possibly others - if the 12V goes flat, you are going nowhere, including opening the doors.
Likely because all vehicle accessories are designed for 12 V battery, especially in the SE which is built out of the same parts as the ICE version.
But from @Joe c's account, the SE appears to exhibit more independence from the 12-Volt battery than any other EV or PHEV. I wonder if an SE with a completely discharged 12-Volt battery, but still a charge in the traction battery, will start?
Per the Motorer's Guide, the SE won't run without a 12 V battery. But who knows if that's simply holdover language from the ICE guide.
It could be simply some kind of short term provision so that all user settings are not lost when changing out the 12v battery. Until someone’s SE ages sufficiently for the 12v battery to demise, we won’t really know what happens when the 12v battery fails. I can only relate to the Volt, which would not start if/when the 12v battery dropped below 12.2v. I always cared a small jumper pack with me and sure enough my battery gave out suddenly and with no warning. I now carry the jumper pack in the boot of my SE. Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
It doesn't make sense to me either. Obviously the 12v battery is there for a purpose. Like Jim I'm guessing there's some sort of limited backup to use the electronics if the 12v dies. But I have the picture of both leads off the battery as proof and could still turn on the car electronics. Would be interesting to talk to a mini service guy to ask.
