I'm new to the forum and have searched for a similar thread but didn't really find this... For the past 2 years or so we've had intermittent issues with L2 charging usually at home. Found the Service Bulletin 18-097 and had it installed last fall but I see no noticeable difference. Still have consisten issue of not being able to charge at home and sometimes other chargers as well. I have a Ford Focus Electric and charge without any issues at home and everywhere else. I still believe the voltage fluctuation protection is too sensitive causing the issue but Honda tells me it's my charger problem, even though I charge my other EV without any issues. Anyone experiencing this even after the Service Bulletin implementation?
@CARLOS VERDUGO , what L2 EVSE (charger) do you have at home? I also suspect your EVSE is the culprit, even though it works fine with the Focus EV. The Clarity is picky about EVSEs. There's one at my workplace (a Chargepoint) that seems to function fine with other EVs, that is at best 50/50 for the Clarity. If it is a real aggravation for you, I'd suggest changing the EVSE.
I have a Siemens Versicharge, about 4 years old. My chord is always outside, I suspect there may be some degradation of the chord creating some voltage/ phase fluctuations.... I'm thinking of replacing just the cable if I can do d some replacement parts It's such a pain, i wish Honda would increase the limits on the voltage/ phase limits.
Does your EVSE report the line voltage? It is possible that your EVSE is fine, but the line voltage is too high or low (and the Clarity is pickier than the Focus). I'm sure there is a specification for a valid input voltage range for the Clarity but I haven't seen it. Remember, the EVSE is mostly just a 'switch' that connects your 240V line into the vehicle. The voltage is determined by the line, not the EVSE.
It's worked without any issues for 2yrs, then it started to intermittently being an issue... That's why I'm thinking chord degradation.
The Siemens Versicharge is a good EVSE. You might try changing the maximum Ampere settings for it and see if that helps. From what I remember, you have to remove the front cover to get to the rotary switch: If you have the older 30A model: Setting 0 1 2 3 4 MAX Current (A) 6 7.5 15 22.5 30 Power (kW) 1.44 1.8 3.6 5.4. 7.2 Copied from manual for the newer 48A unit: Amperage Settings Switch Position Amperage 0 12 1 16 2 24 3 32 4 40 5 48 NOTE: Do not set switch above the 40A unless hardwired via dedicated 60 A branch protection. Settings: 0 - 4 amperage adjustment settings are used for the 40 amp charger (note: the #5 position will cause a bad switch fault for the 40 amp charger) and 0 - 5 amperage adjustment settings are used for the 48 amp charger. Setting the amperage adjustment higher than 5 will result in a fault. • The purpose of the Amperage Adjustment dial is to set the maximum current that the EV is allowed to draw from the charging stations. • The dial has 10 settings. • Settings 0-5 are for amperage adjustments. • Settings 6-9 are for factory use only. These settings will result in a bad switch fault if used.
Sorry that was no help. Do you have a 40A breaker and at least #8 copper for the circuit? If so, you could try the maximum setting to see if it has any more luck. The only reason I ask is that the Chargepoint that gives my Clarity fits switches from 32A to 16A if a second car is plugged in. I am thinking this switching may be what makes my Clarity dislike it.
40A and 6 gauge wiring on a dedicated CB, put the 6 gauge in case I wanted to put in a bigger charger later on. I still think the chord and shielding within may have deteriorated....
That's exactly what I decided to do. I found the wire coiled up in a remnants pile at Home Depot and they gave me a deal on it, so it was cheaper to put in the #6 than #8.
In case you have the AP200 with the beta software, you can double check to make sure your clarity can permit high voltages. I forgot exactly what the line was called but it had 'permit' in it.
I experienced the charging issue in a few different brand of public chargers, and I'd say it's probably a charger compatibility issue. Most reliable charger I've used is probably ChargePoint.
