What camber adjustment options are there for the Mini Cooper SE? Ideally would like 0 toe, 1-2 negative camber front, 1 negative camber rear. Plan to take the car to autocross mainly, and track on rare occasion.
What alignment specs are you aiming for? 0 toe in front and back? I have coilovers on my car and I need to get an alignment pretty soon. I have too much toe-in right in the back and was looking for recommendations.
What is a reason to play with all alignment with a car which is a basic transportation ,if you have a skills you do good with factory setting , if you drive as a an old prick no adjustment help you to go faster ,that car can do only 92 miles an HR . Only skills do difference how you perform with car with so limited performance .
Factory alignment is set by lawyers, not engineers. Lawyers want understeer because it's easier for the general public to react to but is nowhere near the optimal alignment. A custom alignment absolutely transformed my Miata and I'd expect the same result for the MINI. Balanced handling is so much more enjoyable to drive, even at legal speeds.
Front and rear drive cars a completely different dynamics and Miata is at least 800 lbs lighter .We can’t put SE and Miata at the same category . Driving for years rear drive 2600 lbs Porsche 944 SE can’t come close to rear drive car .SE 3150 lbs . And I bet Miata was better than those two.
It’s like the other user said: driving enjoyment. The alignment makes a significant difference in my experience. I have lots of autocross, drift, and track experience. Not worried about oversteer. On the practical side, excessive front tire shoulder wear is common issue with ICE Mini driven hard. The camber and toe adjustment will save me money. Plan to autocross a lot.
Typical autocross setup for (stock) ICE Minis was big rear swaybar and zero rear toe. This setup was plenty entertaining on the street as well. R56 had slightly slotted strut towers that allowed very slight camber. F56 has factory replacement hub carriers that give 0.3° per side, no adjustment otherwise. Aftermarket options typically change your autocross class so be careful if you care about that.
@senior_neet_engineer Did you get the car aligned yet? If so, what are your final specs? I'm assuming you meant 0 toe in the rear and still toe-in in the front.
I've just done my first autocross with 200TW tyres. My 3rd ever event. Rear end was a little more fun than expected, but likely in large part as the front tyres warmed up a lot more than the rears. It started balanced, then got loose, then baggy... Post event analysis showed the rear tyres were barely scuffed on the inside, but had definitely been earning their keep on the outside edge. This is with almost stock alignment. Camber of about -0.5° at the front, -1.5° at the back. I'd reduced the front toe a little. The rear camber adjusters are nearly maxed out as stock. I am doing an event, then deciding what I want to mess with next. For the next event, I'll max out the rear camber. I am really looking forward to adjusting the rear toe... This is my daily driver, so I'm going to keep it sane and in GS class. I beat all but one of the other Mini drivers at my last event, so I'm really not feeling overly handicapped. Especially as they were all in faster classes! Far and away the best mod you can make for autocross is to get a sticky set of tyres. I suggest doing that first, then pondering other tweaks. As a noob who isn't related to Stirling Moss, I went for Falken RT660. I wanted 205/40-16, but they were out of stock everywhere, so she got 215/45-16. Someone else here runs AO52s, quicker but faster wearing and harder on the wallet.
