I went to get my key to go on a trip yesterday. Unfortunately, a 2-year-old had been visiting, and the items on my desk weren't where they normally are -- including my Clarity key. So, I go and grab my 2nd key that has been in a jewelry cabinet for 3 year. Go to the Clarity. Nothing. I start pushing buttons on the remote. Nothings. So, dead battery in the key fob? I pop it open (hint, remove the physical key and use it with a twisting motion to get the fob to open enough where you can insert your favorite screwdriver, finger nail, etc., to open it all the way.) Grab a NEW pack of CR2032 batteries. Remove old one. Insert new one. Nothing. Same with other battery. Nothing. Test batteries with multitester. All are fine. The contacts are clean and shiny. This remote has NEVER been used. Any advice on what I need to do to get this thing working? Thanks, in advance.
Perhaps that remote never worked. After inserting the new battery did you try touching the center of the POWER button with the H logo on the fob? If your fob is totally dead, then that probably won't work, but it's one more thing to try.
Just as an FYI, holding the fob up to the power button only works while the message "To Start, Hold Remote Near Start button" appears on the screen. If that message is not on the screen, holding the fob up to the power button does nothing. However getting that message to appear on the screen can be tricky. After getting in the car, the power button will blink on and off for about 30 seconds, and the Honda logo will briefly appear on the screen. That's normal, it always does that. But you have to wait for all of that to finish and wait until the power button stops blinking. After it stops blinking, you can then press the power button and it will give a message "To Start, Hold Remote Near Start Button". You then hold the fob up the power button, as soon as you do the message on the screen should immediately change to "To Start Vehicle: Brake + Push". You can now pull the fob away from the power button and start the car as usual by pressing the brake pedal and the power button. I point this out because someone who just vaguely remembers that they can hold the fob up to the button may not have any success and give up. Not that reading the manual helps because it is extremely vague on all of this. I recommend the next time anyone replaces the battery on their fob, during the time while the fob has no battery in it that's a good time to try this out for practice, because you can only do this using a fob with no battery, or a completely dead fob battery. A weak fob battery will trigger a different message on the screen. You don't have to put the two fob pieces back together to try it, you only need the half that has the electronics. Actually you can practice the first half of this exercise anytime by simply getting into your car without having the fob with you. You will see what I mean about having to wait 30 seconds for the power button to stop blinking before you can press the power button and get the "To Start, Hold Remote Near Start Button". However a couple of times I pressed the power button while the Honda logo was on the screen and it then started beeping, and after a few seconds of beeping the "To Start, Hold Remote Near Start Button" message appeared. But I don't know how consistent that is or the exact timing, I just know that if you wait until the power button stops blinking it will work.
First of all - THANK YOU!!! While the key fob, for whatever reason, doesn't work with multiple batteries, it DOES work using the method below: You can lock/unlock the car with the physical key since the buttons on the remote don't do anything. It will Power the car on!!
Good that at least you can now drive your car. Seems like the next step whether or not you find the lost key is to get this once replaced. I haven't had to replace one but have seen threads on this, from what I can gather the three choices are: 1. Dealer (approx 500 total including programming) 2. Buy Honda fob online (approx 300) and pay dealer or locksmith to program (approx 100) 3. Go to locksmith and let them purchase the Honda fob. Shopping around can pay off as some people reported paying under 300 for the whole thing I don't know if those prices include cutting the physical key also, but if not hopefully that doesn't add too much to the price. Assuming the dead key is #2, make sure that the replacement key is #2, not a #1 or an unnumbered key (used on Clarity Base) as this affects programming. Used fobs on eBay are not a good option, too much risk that it won't program
My wife had a problem exactly as you describe but on a 2015 Lexus 300h hybrid. Pushing the start button with the key fob would start the car. I put new batteries in both key fobs but it still would not work with either one. So my wife drove the car a few days starting it with the push the key fob into the start button until one day even that did not work. The problem ended up being the 12 volt battery in the car had a cell that was going bad. Replaced the 12 volt battery and now everything is back to normal. I would have the 12 volt battery checked.
Yes, the battery is in correctly. I've even swapped the batteries between the two remotes (I found the original one) but the 2nd remote still doesn't work -- except to put up the the Power switch. Considering that I'm at 95k miles on it, and this is the first attempt to use it, I doubt that the dealer would want to replace it. I still find it odd that it doesn't do anything. When I press any button on the regular remote, a red light comes on at the top of the fob. I've tried numerous batteries, and non of them will make the light come on or lock/unlock the car. Again, it is just weird. FWIW - mine is a base model.
I'd be curious enough to take it to the dealer to see what they would say. I expect most Honda dealers understand remotes much better than they understand plug-in hybrids. Was the suspected key-displacing culprit verified? I love that I can press a button on the front of our TiVo to make all of the remotes start playing a tune and I often find myself calling my phone somewhere in my house. I never have a problem finding the Clarity remote because these days I seldom choose our Clarity when I go out. One reason is I hate listening to our Clarity's rusty (pure-iron?) brake discs going "swish-swish-swish" all the time (even louder when I turn a corner). Of course, the less I drive it the rustier the brake discs get. None of my other Hondas--starting in 1986--had problems with rusty brake discs. I keep wondering if there's an aftermarket brake disc for the Clarity that would solve this problem.
I've experienced a problem that may be related. I bought a single owner, used 2018 Clarity with 20k mi. from a dealer here in Northeast PA in October. I only received one key with the car and shortly after getting the car home I started getting a notification about a low key fob battery. I replaced the battery which seemed to fix the notice but then I would start having to hold the key to the start button in order to start the car. I also began noticing intermittent problems with the remote not working... remotely. I've found that putting pressure on the black plastic framing between buttons, right where the letters "HOLD" appear, on the remote seems to close the battery circuit and allow the remote to function normally. I wonder. Are there are slight variations in CR2032 cell thickness? I have considered shimming mine with a piece of aluminum foil but don't want to risk a short, destroying my only remote. Question: How can I tell if my key is a #1 or #2?
Same issue as above with erratic key fob sensing, even with new battery. This applies to opening the door, trunk and starting. I’m wondering if there is a problem on the car side, maybe a battery in the car that is depleted. Out something else.
Clarity regen braking is so effective that it take may multiple drives to scrub the surface rust off the friction brakes in ordinary driving. If you take it up to speed and hammer the brakes (in a time and place this can be done safely and legally) it will accelerate the process. Sorry for the thread creep...
The thread creep is entirely my bad. Believe me, I've hammered the brakes many times in the past 4 years. After getting my rotors resurfaced 2 years ago, I hammered often in an attempt to prevent the rust from returning, but I failed.
I have driven my Clarity over 140K miles, and rotor rust noise never bothered me ...until today. Thanks Insightman...
I apologize. I never realized my disappointment could be contagious. I'm surprised that your Clarity, which you must drive frequently to have 140K miles, has the same problem as my seldom-driven Clarity with only 14K miles in 4 years.
Another technique would be to switch to neutral while coasting to a stop or on a slight downhill, as there will be no regen only friction brakes. Although that might technically be illegal in some states, I'm not sure. Either way for safety reasons it's probably best to do it with no one else around. And still may not be enough to solve your problem if the car is not driven as often.
