I'm trying to wire a Thinkware F800PRO (https://us.thinkware.com/products-f800pro/). My problem is I can't seem to find the 'always on' fuse within the fuse box. I've seen all the diagrams online, and I'm beginning to suspect the Canadian Clarity might have a different lay out. The behaviour is also a bit odd because the dash cam does indeed go into parking mode, but it power cycles and thinks its coming online (as if the car turned on), and then back into attemping going into parking mode. It will do this regardless of which one it is in. I'm just wondering if anyone got the exact same dash cam working, and preferably with a Canadian Clarity, although it shouldn't really matter altogether.
I installed this exact dashcam (American Clarity) or its predecessor. I wrote a thread about it which I hope is helpful-sorry to quote myself, and I can’t figure out how to do this elegantly, but if you search for “fuse map” I think you’ll find it. It identifies the power state of every fuse position. Chances are at least some will be the same for the Canadian clarity. Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
Oops, search only works if you add my username. Or try this link. Fuse map, and which positions are switched vs always on https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?posts/37386/ I think you know this, but you have to have it plugged into two fuses (one always-on, one switched) to get the proper behavior. Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
This was actually the thread I was referencing, but regardless of which one I'm plugged into for the always on, the behaviour loops itself.
I should rephrase it a bit as to what is actually happening.. The problem I have is that the camera is detecting a signal from IG or ACC sockets regardless of state. Parking mode gets kicked out of parking mode after 10 seconds(?) of being in parking mode.
Since I had the original post that didn't help you, I feel a little responsible. I took a look at my fuse box, and I see that my "ALWAYS ON" is tapped into the top row, 3rd from left, with a fuse tap (that still lets the original circuit function). That's position 29. I can't remember why I decided that (it's the windows I think) but made sense at the time. I actually tapped the ACC/IG lead into the wiring behind the front accessory power socket, not a fuse. You can see my thread about that (referenced at the top of the "Fuse Map" thread). That said, it was a pain which is why I made the "Fuse Map" thread to try to simplify for others. Though it was mostly taken from wiring diagrams, I see that I wrote (it's been a while) that I actually tested all the "Not Used" fuse positions. Assuming I didn't lie and wasn't mistaken, then I would have tested C2, C11, and C20 to prove that they were not powered when the car was not on. Which fuse position are you using for ALWAYS ON, and which fuse position for the ACC lead, for the ThinkWare? The only immediate things I can think of is that you have them reversed (sorry, I have to suggest it); or that IG and ACC don't really behave the same way (that is, C2 and C 11/C20 might not really all be equivalent)--try moving your ACC fuse tap between these, or confirming with a circuit tester.
I'll give this a try, and I truly do appreciate your assistance with this. Please don't feel personally responsible; you've done so much for the community by posting the mapping already .
