Read Battery Capacity Yourself (Autel AP200 Breakthrough)

Discussion in 'Clarity' started by MrFixit, Nov 8, 2020.

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  1. MrFixit

    MrFixit Well-Known Member

    Hum, that seems impossible to me.
    Are you sure that you actually got the new one that you created and didn't get confused by looking at my example by mistake?
    Check the date in the report. I see no way that your report would have my VIN... The AP200 reads the VIN from the vehicle.
     
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  3. Danks

    Danks Active Member

    You are correct. In my attempt to compare my report to your report I found 2 copies of your report in my downloads folder and thought one of them was mine.

    Back to saving PDFs. Are we supposed to be able to save them on our phones? When I try I get a "no change" message. It acts like it is saving, but I can't find it anywhere. The only thing I've figured out doing is to Preview the PDF and than share it via email.
     
  4. MrFixit

    MrFixit Well-Known Member

    Yes...
    Here is where a saved .pdf file gets placed (it is NOT obvious) !!!

    /Android/data/com.autel.maxiap200.autelap/files/MaxiApScan/Data/PDF
     
  5. JohnT

    JohnT Active Member

    I hunted up mine - this is the path on my phone:
    PHONE\Internal shared storage\Android\data\com.autel.maxiap200.autelap\files\MaxiApScan\Data\PDF
     
  6. JohnT

    JohnT Active Member

    and this is a text extraction from the pdf:
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. alter

    alter Member

    Has anyone else gotten a reading of 55.0Ah? The number seems too perfect and round to be real.
     
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  9. Danks

    Danks Active Member

    Thanks. My SOC % and related numbers - Battery line and cell voltages are very similar to yours. It is helpful to be able to relate to other car numbers.
     
  10. MrFixit

    MrFixit Well-Known Member

    @alter
    I agree with you... Something seems wrong, but it is hard to think what might be happening here.
    If you don't mind posting your report, others might be able to zero in on something suspicious.
     
  11. alter

    alter Member

    The only thing I can think of is maybe the calibration reset when recently my car had a conniption which the dealer told me had to do with the 12 volt battery undervolt (I couldn't disengage the EPB or move the car and it made a whirling sound while the entire dash lit up in warnings messages.) As indicated in my diagnostic report I've only driven around 300km since that happened (AMAZING level of details here). However, my GoM still is calibrated (when the 12 volt system goes completely off, i.e. removing the battery, the GoM recalibrates) so I would think the battery pack capacity shouldn't just reset either...

    Attached
     

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  13. MrFixit

    MrFixit Well-Known Member

    I think you likely nailed it...
    It undoubtedly takes several (many?) charge cycles before the Clarity is able to converge on a valid measurement for capacity.
    I would watch for a while before drawing any conclusions.
     
  14. rreyes

    rreyes New Member

    Thank you so much MrFixit. The update applied easily within a minute of initiating the upgrade. My car came back at 54.3Ah. It is a 2020 that I've had for about 5 months with around 2200 miles. If you are using any of this data for anything, I can post info on my wife's and brother's car when I get a chance to scan it.
     
  15. alter

    alter Member

    Could be, but I find it strange that everything else is remembered, but the battery pack capacity alone resets.

    So much useful information I wish Honda made all this information available through the head unit. Like the charge current and voltage are pretty useful too.
     
  16. NorCalPete

    NorCalPete Active Member

    Thank you MrFixit and Danks! I just scanned my car (using both Autel and the alternative Vgate/Car-Scanner method). Both agree that my 2018 with 16445 miles reads 50.7 AH. That seems a bit higher compared to others the same year/miles. We picked up our car the day it arrived at the dealer (with 7 miles on it), so it had less time to sit uncharged on the lot - maybe that accounts for the difference.

    And thanks to Alter too! If my AH drops precipitously, I'll just run the 12 volt battery down, trigger a car conniption fit, and it'll be "restored" to 55 AH after the dealer resets it! ;)
     
  17. leop

    leop Active Member

    I am having a problem. When I try to look at the Electric Powertrain, I get a communication error to the control unit. I get the same error when I look at a few other things like TPMS. I can successfully look at many other things such Body Electric.

    At the home screen, the HONDA choice says version 2.01, not 2.10.54. Do I not have the beta? Should I delete HONDA and try to get it again. Or, did I have but one choice to get HONDA and will need pay for another HONDA.

    Any ideas?

    LeoP
     
  18. MrFixit

    MrFixit Well-Known Member

    An update on the Beta authorizations...
    There have been a total of 23 members requesting Beta access.

    I just sent the list of serial numbers on behalf of these 4 forum members:
    @ajzwilli
    @JustAnotherPoorDriver
    @Nutven
    @Ohliuw

    I have started another list to pick up stragglers.
     
  19. MrFixit

    MrFixit Well-Known Member

    I would like to clarify some confusion about software / versions as it relates to the AP200.
    This is based on my observations and not anything directly from Autel, but I think it is mostly right...

    First, it is necessary to identify the different pieces.
    There are 4 pieces to the AP200 system:
    1. The Vehicle Connection Interface (VCI). This is the AP200 itself that connects to the vehicle
    2. The App(s) on the phone. This is the MaxiAP200 that you obtain from the Play Store.
    3. During install, MaxiAP200 will also install another App ('diag-asia').
    4. The Diagnostic code that gets installed for the vehicle(s) you are working on.

    Versions:

    1. The VCI contains firmware.
    This firmware is updated occasionally by the MaxiAP200 App. This occurs when you are running the App, have MaxiAP200 connected to the vehicle (with the AP200), and to the Internet. You will be informed that the VCI firmware is being update. To see what your VCI firmware version is, go to "Me" and select "VCI Manager". Here is an example:
    upload_2021-3-4_8-57-58.png

    2., 3. The two Apps (MaxiAP200, and diag-asia) update just like any other App from the Play Store. Autel will occasional release a new version, and depending on your phone settings, they will auto-update or not. MaxiAP200 may also recognize that an update exists and offer it to you, I'm not certain of this. The versions of these two Apps are always coupled together (they are both always the same version). To see what version you have, go to "Me", "Settings", "About". Here is an example:
    upload_2021-3-4_8-58-11.png

    Notice that my version is 1.36.
    The current versions for a new install in the Play Store are 1.41. I have chosen to not update for now.

    4. Finally, and most importantly, there is the Diagnostic Software. This is what gets installed when you select a vehicle(s) that you want to work on (in this case, Honda). It is not really software, but rather a database used by the application to know how to interact with your vehicle. You can see this on the main diagnostics page, and here is an example:
    upload_2021-3-4_8-58-25.png

    Note that the 'Eobd' and 'Demo' are free parts of the AP200 system that includes the standard mandated OBD2 emissions-related functions.

    Most Importantly - You MUST have version 2.01.54 as shown above for the Honda Diagnostics. This will start out as version 2.01 when you install it. It is the beta upgrade that brings it to 2.01.54.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2021
  20. alter

    alter Member

    Some thoughts about my 55.0 Ah issue. (It hasn't changed, I did not expect it to). If indeed it is possible to reset the capacity value, and if it takes time to calibrate (more than 300km of EV driving) then:

    1) PDI values don't reflect your starting battery capacity as they are not allowed to drive the car more than a set distance much less than 300km (I believe the last time someone mentioned this to me the number was 20km or something. They had to tow a new car we bought so the value did not exceed this low mileage)
    2) Warranty claims can easily be circumvented by honda resetting the capacity

    Just something to think about.
     
  21. I’d put that somewhere near the category of fraud. While I do not currently have the original capacity reading, I do have one from the dealer of 49.9Ah. It would be some miraculously innovative battery technology to restore that capacity to 55Ah in 8-10 years time.

    If this is a serious concern, it may be worthwhile to the concerned, to have a dealer measure the capacity and print a full report after 2, 3 or 4 years of ownership.
     
  22. Danks

    Danks Active Member

    If battery capacity loss depends on number of discharge - recharge battery cycles, then it would make sense for a car in warmer weather to lose less than a car in colder weather. If you are in CA, then you would lose less than I would in MI. Our EV range drops into the 30's in the winter. If a car got 50 mi / charge it would get 15,000 mi in 300 charges. If a car only got 30 mi / charge it would take 500 charges.

    When I compare my 22K mi 48.6 aH to your 16K mi 50.7 and @MrFixit's Maryland car's 22K mi 49.1, then we all fit that theory.

    Alter's car on the other hand doesn't fit in a lot ways.
     
  23. alter

    alter Member

    I've had warranty claims rejected for less. Most recently an AC issue with a civic. The dealer can claim that they can only go by the numbers the car is telling them even if they had removed the 12 volt line recently to diagnose a problem (which they did before trying to debug a HV range issue I had). So if you come in asking why your EV range is so low they may reset your entire system to see if the GoM improves as they did for me.

    I may be more jaded then most though. Though I don't put them in the same class as canadiantire. I've had a battery replacement rejected by them even though it had a crack down the side because their battery tester still showed it to be good. A test by interstate that same day showed it to have only 70watt hours of capacity.

    The PDI thing I think is more a concern because maybe your car was just sitting in the lot for a long time and degraded much more than a PDI test would tell you. Also, of course you can't trust the initial number so you can't say your battery degraded XX% in the first year.
     

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