I’m sorry to hear it’s totaled. Are you going to get another one? Also, how did the other car drive away. I mean, it should have done damage or at the very least really gotten their attention.
I would guess that when the other car (assuming it was) slammed on the brakes, it’s trunk rose up and that punched your car in the nose/hood instead of the bumper. They probably just have a destroyed bumper, trunk lid and tail lights. No, it wasn’t me
Waiting on insurance ACV offer... when I talked to the independent appraiser I had no problem the vehicle going to the parts company already, except I wanted to verify/agree the condition allocated to it by the adjuster. Appraiser said he does that (I know, but wasn't saying that ), and he said "that vehicle condition was that was a brand new car, it was perfect", so I guess I'll see how the CCC report is when the Adjuster calls me. NADA values seem to have a rapid downward slope the last month and a half, so if I'm lucky their report uses comparison vehicles from a month or two ago... Not sure on another one yet. No vehicles are a similar "value" and next year (isn't it always 'next year'?) looks like there's some new EVs, seems to make sense to try to get another one and I could trade/sell if I wanted to next year for a small profit. I'd also eliminate having to choose a new vehicle from the todo list. I'm not in CA though, so I'd have to remotely negotiate, find a dealer that would ship to me, and buy it without physically seeing it. I pulled out my console liner and Tuxmats and replaced with unused factory mats, left my hitch installed. So If I bought another I would have to buy a new hitch for the bike rack but I would have the floormats already. I would also have to have window tint installed on a new one. Haha. You sound guilty! I will be interested to see if it goes collision or UIPD. I think that will take up to a couple weeks until the police report is filed. I was honest, I saw the vehicle before collision, best recollection was a lane change into/in front of me (and obvious speed difference if in front. There was a highway entrance just before), I didn't remember the vehicle type though. So it's up to my ins. co, I didn't provide really strong evidence or absolute claim it wasn't my fault (honestly, I'm not sure, either) and it was the front of my car that collided with the rear of another vehicle. The insurance agent volunteered/ prodded me to characterize the above as "someone merged into me". After collision was impossible to see the vehicle driving off, for a few reasons.
My nonprofessional opinion is that guy (gal?) running away is the best proof of your innocence. Stick to that and fight. I wish you luck, felt sad seeing that picture, your car was just like mine.
Received their ACV assessment (only missing 2 minor things will probably change value by $200-$400, the installed ecohitch and also the remote start wasn't selected, probably because the key has the weird fan symbol instead of the normal remote start one...) $27800 + TTL, should be right at $30k with TTL when the 2 corrections are made. One of the two comps in the report was at a consignment "dealership", which seems to not jive with the $1k adjustment to "private party" value of that comp -- but since I'm happy overall with the valuation, I don't think I'm going to question that piece. At best it would gain another $500. I've yet to decide to try to have an out-of-state 2020 clarity delivered from CA or find a different replacement vehicle.
Does your experience with your Clarity affect what different replacement vehicles you might choose? I don't know any car that could replace our Clarity PHEV.
There is not really any comparable "value" vehicles. Ins. co is going to pay me about $8k-$9k more than I paid for my 2018 18 months ago (this includes the $7500 fed credit). Replacements would maybe be a Niro EV (I test drove one last year) or a Mach E (those look like they're on backorder), both much more expensive alternatives. If I can get a 2020 clarity touring delivered out of state to me for ~$30-$31k... That seems like the best course, then I won't have to shop for other vehicles, and I could even sell or trade it next year for a profit if there's a better vehicle sometime next year. I'd also have to order a new ecohitch and install that. There are many shortcomings of the clarity (the infotainment/other tech like lack of cameras, no cross traffic sensors either). Just a big cost gulf to go from something that has a negative cost-to-own to any of the alternatives. The hitch gets around lack of being more of a utility vehicle.
There's a dealer 200 mi away that shows 3 kia niro ev premiums in stock... maybe get a quote on those too. Full electric just still seems like a challenge (though I didn't take any long trips last year), with DC fast charging MUCH more expensive than using gas (in honda clarity, for example), and it still takes like an hour for only 200mi charge...
@Bender, having been a victim of “someone merged into me”. It can be as sudden as you described. Back when I had my 2016 CRV the other car was driven by young guy that suddenly decided he needed to make a right exit from the left lane without looking. He tried to get away but I was able to follow until he got stuck in traffic almost immediately. Our damage was less but the parallels are definitely there. Someone suddenly cutting you off to get to an exit is very possible. A dash cam would have definitely helped to fill in the gaps. Things can happen in a fraction of a second.
The closest would be a used, discontinued Volt. No other PHEV, at any price, has as much EV range. I’m not aware of any that have the “charge on the fly” option. Some have a better, claimed HV mpg rating, but 40-50% less EV range. I haven’t been if a Hyundai or Kia PHEV. Fit and finish is probably as good as Honda. Ride comfort may not be as pleasant. They have 25-30 mile EV ranges and the smaller battery does not qualify for the full $7500 tax credit. The RAV is expensive and probably unobtainable. Then things get really expensive and have EV ranges of 15-20 miles. Warts and all, for a PHEV, the Clarity is tough to beat.
I was in a Niro EV (not PHEV) last year, but it was the lower trim. The acceleration is faster, but unclear on the other quality, I'd expect the ride comfort not as good. The Niro's infotainment setup looks less 2000s' android. Sadly I am not remembering if I liked the seats that well and it's 100 miles to the nearest dealer with stock (which may not have good pricing either). I am debating looking at the mitsubishi outlander phev tomorrow. It's ~20mi range like you said (~$6k tax credit). I am guessing I would be very disappointed with overall quality. The non phev outlanders are so cheap too, it's probably not worth it. Slow accel, cheap various things. It has a couple nice options like a OEM tow option and a 1500W AC inverter. But other than that I would guess it would be disappointing. Mustang Mach-E looks pricey (relative to the steal I got last year on the Clarity), but looks pretty nice.... except lead time to get one since I didn't reserve a spot.
Hyundai/Kia PHEVs all have no source of heat except the ICE. Running on pure EV is impossible for many for at least part of the year. Outlander PHEV is the best selling PHEV in the world, but the US did not get the refreshed model with bigger battery and more range (at least not yet). It does have a CHAdeMO connector even with the small battery. Also not conducive to operating in pure EV mode. Mitsu is a fringe player in the US, so dealerships are fewer. Road tripping in a BEV is still primarily Tesla territory, but the CCS network is catching up fast. Pull up Plugshare and filter for 120 kW+ CCS and you will see if it matches where you need to go today. ID.4 is also worth a look, but has the same cost & availability issues as the Mach-E. We've had Honda BEVs for 7 years as our around town/commuter car. Our "gas guzzler" (42 mpg) hybrid will be replaced in the next year or so by a longer range BEV with 300+ kW charging (~500 miles per hour of charging). Exact timing depends on the configuration/options we choose. When the lease is up on the Clarity Electric, we will extend it or look for another budget EV for around town.
I purchased my replacement vehicle. Niro EV EX (carpet cargo mat, carpet floor mat, cargo net -- though the net is missing I think). It had 19 miles on it before my test drive, manufacturer date April though.... $34700 inclusive of dealer fee (document), $37000 OTD. Red -- not sure on the color, it was that or grey and I've had a white and silver. Guess I have to flip my Clarity Tuxmats and the 110V charger (the OEM charger looked like it's around $250 last I looked on eBay).
Sold listings history from last month, two were sold used at 270 and 270 inclusive of shipping... Probably closer to 180-200 after fees. Yes, it makes no sense it has value as it's basically a cable... but the same applies to the L2 lightswitches for $400-$600 I should have left the tuxmats in the vehicle and got ins. to pay the retail like the ecohitch, those will probably just mostly find someone who wants them no significant $recovery.
Here is my 2018 Clarity Touring replacement. Cost after Fed but without including the $2500 state rebate (need to submit) was equal to the Clarity loss payment. Haven't bought hitch or better mats yet, though. I miss the quieter ride and the beeps in the new vehicle are somewhat annoying. Oddly, I'm missing the clarity blindspot camera.... I do have cross traffic sensors now, though. It was a good run with the Clarity, though short..
You’ll have to forgive me here, but based on the picture, I thought a seagull had an accident on your front seat. Zooming in it’s just the plastic cover, to my relief. I think you made a good choice. Looked at that one as well, though Kia is having some engine troubles. Let us know how you still like it a few weeks in?
Oddly, my insurance premiums went down significantly. All the totaled clarity vehicles must be showing through the data...
No fighting necessary. But slightly aggravating. Basically, my insurance company doesn't process the UI part until after closing out the expected damages under collision (obv, can re-open for medical, if necessary). So they wouldn't definitively tell me it was approved (in writing), I had to first transfer title to the vehicle to them and have the checks all issued... The next day, they processed it under UIPD, though . But they haven't moved the loss of use over yet, maybe tomorrow. Aggravating to me because contingency plans I would prefer to have had the vehicle available for an expert to look at the damage and fight if they declined liability and I so chose to challenge. (The police report indicated the Hit and Run driver, but the described situation had "no" to nearby entrance/exit and opinion was traffic just slowed). Total payments for the ~9k miles 2018 Touring lost early December, with an ecohitch: $29,700. +$750 for 25 days loss of use. Net purchase price last year after $7500 credit was $20,400. Total cost of ownership over 18 months (include car insurance, electric, gas) ~= -$388/month. Only open issue I have now is my back is still a little sore a month later... (haven't gone in to be checked out, though I'd be surprised if there'd be diagnostic ordered for slight soreness)
