Newbie here, wife getting her 2021 Kona (preferred) six months earlier than expected.

Discussion in 'Hyundai Kona Electric' started by navguy12, Aug 13, 2020.

To remove this ad click here.

  1. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    The car really should have a very clear button that says "stop charging now".
     
    electriceddy likes this.
  2. To remove this ad click here.

  3. Pheonician

    Pheonician New Member

    Curious if you’ve seen this video or not? He does a pretty good job at explaining the EVSE and how it communicates with your car.

    Make a note at about the 15:45 mark.

     
    navguy12 likes this.
  4. ehatch

    ehatch Active Member

    CCS may be daunting to handle for your wife compared with SC,v2.Hope Tesla brings out the CCS adapter*
    How does she like the ACC versus AP2?
    Did you see 70kW speed ?
    Passenger footwell,haven't noticed,but the hvac fan seems to permanently blow in some air despite being off,and the vent being closed.Resolved for the most part by closing vents,and pointing it away from the driver towards the door.
    Curious how your Model 3 compares with the Kona electric as you experience the first winter with its heat pump.I think it's better because of the heat pump.The Kona is efficient,it has about a 30% range loss in the winter with below 0C,can be less with pre conditioning.The Y I tested was pretty good with highway driving above speed limit,and the hvac on as it has a heat pump.
     
  5. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    Thanks for this!

    I didn't know that thumb switch will "magically" shut down the current flow in a controlled manner prior to removing the plug.
     
  6. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    Cheers.

    My wife has never driven my TM3 (she can't deal with the layout) so she has never touched a SC plug. That said, she found the CCS device easier to use than our level two EVSE unit in the garage.

    The Ivycharge CCS EVSE had a maximum placarded rating of 50 kW. That would work out to a delivered rate of one kWh every 1.2 minutes. We were plugged in for 25 minutes and 55 seconds (lets call it 26 minutes). 26 divided by 1.2 equals 21.6...so in theory 21.6 kWh could have been delivered at a rate of 50 kW. The EVSE stated 18.7 kWh delivered, so our average uptake rate (from 48% SOC to 70% SOC) was 43.3 kW. I would suspect that when we plugged in at 48% SOC, the initial rate may have been at 50 kW...I really do not know the taper characteristics of this car.

    Since she doesn't drive the TM3, she can only speak to that as a passenger...and since we have yet to suffer a single "phantom braking" event with the Kona, as a passenger, we both like it better than the TM3 system. Since I drive both vehicles, IMO the Kona system is better at smoothly keeping me in my lane and I never have to worry about phantom braking, especially on two lane highways. Also, the Kona doesn't bias itself to the left of the center-line of the lane, so on-coming traffic doesn't have to move to their right to comfortably pass my vehicle. To all the Tesla fans out there, the truth is IN ITS CURRENT ITERATION I find the Tesla level 2 cruise control system inferior to the Kona level 2 cruise control system from a passenger comfort perspective.

    I'm still thinking this one out. I suspect I will build an ad hoc shroud to insulate that whole housing that holds the HVAC fan. I'm almost thinking, because this is a heat pump system, that some portion of the system that becomes the suction/low side (when asked to heat me instead of cool me) is "conditioning" the airflow prior to the HVAC fan and evaporator core. The whole housing just feels cold soaked. I must think on this for a few days...

    My TM3 is a May 2018 build, so all I have is the resistance heater in it. With two full winters of data (just starting winter three now), the TM3 seems to show the following average numbers (Wh/km "grid" to wheels (NOT car odometer) readings):

    Summer: about 170 Wh/km Winter: about 265 Wh/km

    Not much data yet on the Kona (Wh/km "grid" to wheels (NOT car odometer) readings):

    Summer: about 140 Wh/km Winter: last month was 231 Wh/km, but only 401.9 km traveled...so not enough data yet.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------

    I'd like to re-visit my back of napkin numbers regarding what the usable capacity of the battery pack may be.

    Yesterday's trip figures:

    IMG_0645.JPG

    We left home with 100% SOC. We added 22% SOC at the charger. We arrive home with 20% SOC.

    102% of available capacity was used.

    Using the odometer figures (383.7 x .177) I get a total of 67.9 kWh used (for 102% capacity).

    This maths out to 100% equaling 66.6 kWh...
     
    ehatch and electriceddy like this.
  7. To remove this ad click here.

  8. Just a small couple of small notes; the Ivycharge CCS unit ( ABB manufactured ) is actually a DC charger and of course bypasses the on AC/DC board charger (converter) integral in the Kona, therefore is a "charger", not an EVSE. From my experience with these 50 kW DC chargers, the losses are ~ 10% which will have a bearing on your napkin math. Of course kW delivered are at much slower rate compared to warm temperatures so additionally this will increase the charging cost.
    I found on my 2019 model the ACC lane keep assist did indeed keep me uncomfortably close to the center line, however on my 21 model it keeps me centered in the lane perfectly as you describe, which leads me to believe Hyundai probably paid attention to the more than a few complaints filed, and have probably made some adjustments (not sure how whether physically or thru software) to help cure this scenario. It is possible the original manufactured cars went out in a rush and were never properly aligned.
     
    ehatch and navguy12 like this.
  9. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    Here is my solution:

    I took a de-commissioned padded workout mat and after some rudimentary measurements, cut it and installed it in place as shown:

    IMG_0649.JPG

    It is friction fit behind the center console side trim, the top edge of the floor pan carpet where it meets the fire wall and behind the outboard kick plate trim.

    It is suspended in place using 3M double sided automotive trim tape and various hard points including but not limited to the frames of the holes for the heat duct outlets, the HVAC fan shroud and the structural metal bar at the base of the glove box.

    Nothing is seen from any normal perspectives:

    IMG_0648.JPG
     
    electriceddy likes this.
  10. My back tells me you must have had a fun time getting in there :eek: let us know how well it solves the issue.
     
    mho, ehatch and navguy12 like this.
  11. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    ...and for some reason
    a very sore toe :confused:
     
    ehatch likes this.
  12. To remove this ad click here.

  13. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    My wife is departing on her first solo long range trip with the Kona, in two weeks, to visit her family in eastern Ottawa.

    Since she bought the car, it has spent every night in our heated garage.

    However, the Kona will be parked outside for a total of six days...I'm sure the odd run to the local grocery store will be part of the routine.

    Being parked outside, exposed to outside winter temps (let's say -20C for discussion sake), she asked me (essentially), "How much vampire drain per day can (she) expect?".

    I told her that unlike my TM3, I have no data points on a Kona's vampire drain is when parked out in the cold.

    We do run the Kona with the (can't remember the exact term) user selectable winter battery conditioning option.

    My questions to the community:
    1. If we leave the battery winter conditioning option "on", how much battery SOC could be expected to be "lost" in 24 hours at typical cold winter temperatures,
    2. What if we turn battery winter condition option "off", how much SOC would be lost every 24 hours, and
    3. If I instruct her to simply leave the car plugged in for the six day period, will the system automatically top itself back up to the set point (of 90%) every evening (we set it to charge only after 1900 daily)?
    Thanks.
     
  14. Tomek

    Tomek Active Member

    Our brand new Kona with a mileage of 8km (100% charged) was parked from December 18 to January 5, but the temperature did not drop below + 5 ° C. After boarding, I still found a full 100% charge. I suppose in severe frosts you can expect problems with the 12V battery rather than with the high voltage battery. But I am waiting impatiently for answers from those who tested the problem under the conditions you are asking about.
     
    navguy12 likes this.
  15. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    I have found the natural vampire drain rate when at 8C is 17.25 Wh/day.
     
    electriceddy likes this.
  16. My car was in the shop outside for the month of November unplugged and lost 1%.
     
    navguy12 and electriceddy like this.
  17. Pretty darn close to navguy12 vampire drain post findings. 17.25*30/64000*100=.8%
     
    mho and navguy12 like this.
  18. ehatch

    ehatch Active Member

    Winter Mode on,it "pre conditions" your DC to increase speed because it's "warmed up." Cost, range* I would just plug into 120V to keep the car conditioned at night when it drops below 0C,with [click thread] winter mode on when idle. Pre condition before you use it during the day locally,and before a longer drive when away.When driving the long distance,turn it off to get as much range as possible since the battery should be warm by the time you use DCFC.
     
    navguy12 likes this.
  19. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    Tomorrow, my wife is going on her first unaccompanied long range trip in her Kona EV.

    It is a 257 km (one way) trip, which we have already done once in the Kona (together) last fall.

    The Kona will be parked outside for four days, subject to forecast temps of -20C.

    Question number one: Kona seems very ambivalent (compared to Tesla) regarding charging to 100% and then letting the car sit there (such as long term storage). Can I reset the "Charging Limit" for our usual 90% to 100% for this four day trip and not worry about accelerated battery degradation?

    Question number two: My friend's Chevy Bolt has "active battery conditioning" and it uses a measurable amount of energy when the ambient temperature goes below freezing. Does the Kona "Winter Mode" (within EV settings) run the EV battery coolant heater when the car is parked, off and locked up? If so, how much SOC% will this chew through in a single 24 hour period?

    Thanks.
     
  20. I've charged my car to 100% virtually every day for a year and a half. I've seen no consequence. I've never seen winter mode engage any battery conditioning while parked. I park my car outside year-round and it's usually plugged in but, aside from the 12 volt battery monitoring, I've seen no evidence of it drawing current for onboard functions.
     
    navguy12 likes this.
  21. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    Excellent. I'll set her up to 100% and leave Winter Mode on. Cheers.
     
  22. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    My wife just texted me, she arrived at planned destination with no fan fare enroute.

    Departed with 100% SOC, arrived with 19% SOC.

    Trip temperature was -7C, roads were clear and dry.
     
  23. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    My wife arrived back home with 21% (departed at 99% indicated, no stopping).

    Roads had some slushy areas, but otherwise clear and dry.

    Trip was driven at -8C with slight headwind component.

    HVAC kept at 18C, with fan set at (manual) lowest speed setting, fresh air only, aimed at windscreen and floor.

    For the limited access freeway portion to Carlton Place (south west of Ottawa), speed was set at 100 kph, while 90 kph was the cruise speed on the rest of the 257 km journey.
     
    electriceddy and Wildeyed like this.

Share This Page