But the GOM is an estimate of future driving, not necessarily SOG only, so maybe it is using power plug. It always goes down wether charging or not when AC is activated. What amazes me is how much it affects range. I wonder if AC affects ICEs range as much.
I'm not sure what SOG is. And, no, the GOM responds to inputs, it doesn't predict anything. If it's 500 and I turn on AC it drops as a result. So if it drops while plugged in it must be using the battery. Otherwise, why would it drop?
I was told by my dealer that they don't. Yesterday, I was able to put it to the test. It was raining hard and I could see the reflection of the top brake light shimmering off the water droplets on the rear glass when I stepped on the brakes. However, I saw no reflections when using regen 2/3/4.
Because it is a guess of future driving range, and it will change depending on inputs such as turning on or off the AC wether it’s plugged in or not. SOC is state of chargeYou can assume that it uses power plug to run AC while plugged in. As I said the GOM is a guess of range, so if you continue to run the AC, your range will be less, regardless of your current state if charge. It doesn’t mean the car is using your battery to run AC while you are plugged in.
I believe the lights come on when the regen level on the power metre hits two bars, regardless of settings
There is plenty of videos on YouTube as for the brake lights. They do come on in Regen 2 and 3 pretty much whenever you let your foot of the throttle. Although you have to have a certain speed. They don't come on when you're only going like 10 mph or if you keep your foot on it a little. However in Regen 1 they don't always come on because it is so little Regen, comparable to coasting in an ice car. Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
But the related issue is that the brake light does seem to not remain 'on' when stopped after a left-paddle-hold. That's an advantage of using the pedal, optionally with Autohold, nevermind the better control over deceleration.
Why is that related? It doesn't have anything to do with when it comes on. It just always turns off once you come to a stop with the Regen paddle. Yes, it should stay on, but people are obsessing about when it comes on and when it doesn't using Regen. It definitely comes on when there is a significant amount of Regen (breaking action). It's just like an ice car coasting. The brake lights don't come on. Nobody ever obsessed about that. It happens every day millions of times. I'm sure sometimes somebody doesn't see it and rear ends a car. I think it's funny that people are so obsessed about it, just because it's an EV. I mean, I get it, I first was wondering too. But then I saw the glare on the wiper and knew it's coming on. So Will it always save me from getting rear ended? Hell no, but it's just like in every other car. Actually I'm sure you can downshift in an ice car and generate more motor brake action without a brake light than when it comes on in the Kona. Like somebody else said: enjoy your car and use it, don't lose any sleep over things like battery degradation or brake lights. Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
I believe the HVAC draws directly from the pack, meanwhile the EVSE tries to keep up by re-charging the depletion and I know of no setting to change this operation.
As I mentioned the brake lights come on when regen hits two bars on the power meter. It doesn’t matter what regen level you have set. Even with regen set to 2 or 3 it won’t come on if you just ease up on pedal. If you take your foot off accelerator completely the light will come on in level 2 or 3. It will also come on with smart regen slowing you down even in regen level 1, as long as the regen level hits two bars. That’s why I like to use regen 1 and efficiently use my the brake pedal for regen, then I know the brake light comes on and stays on while stopped at a light. I’m getting around 470km per full charge, mostly highway driving (100+kph) average), so it’s pretty efficient doing it this way.
This makes sense if it's the way it works. Seems kind of complex and a bit silly, doesn't it? After all, if I am pre-conditioning the car it means I'm going to drive in a few minutes. How could the car possibly top up in such a short time?
I just noticed my first 2 issues today. 1) i had my settings set to regeneration level 3 for ECO mode. However, somehow it keeps resetting to 2 every couple of days. 2) I was driving with the AC off and the blower on and in the middle of the trip, the AC comes on ice cold.. The display indicated that AC was off but it was blowing cold and pulling 1.89kw. Had to push the off button to shut it off again.. very weird..
It's possible that it was the defroster due to humidity or window fogging. That's an automatic feature. Was it a damp day?
I also have had the A/C come on (on a cool day) and additionally have had the seat heater come on (on a hot day) http://www.mykonaev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=295#p296
The battery State of Charge wouldn't go down in this situation, but there is still an impact. Judging from how UPSes work, when possible you want to bypass the battery rather than simultaneously charge and discharge it. If you ask the battery to conduct the current from charger to air conditioning unit, there will be unnecessary heat and wear on the electrodes. I do not think this is what Hyundai intended.
Thank you, exactly my thoughts! I'm pretty sure they didn't do that (if they were smart). Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Well, I'm in Florida... It was humid and I was not running the AC, so the windows were fogging a little bit. Didn't know that this was an automatic feature.. Interesting.. That only leaves my other issue with the Drive mode settings changing.. That seems to be a software issue.. Every couple of days, my regeneration on ECO mode jumps back to level 2 even though I set it to level 3 in the settings menu..