Clarity Splash Guards

Yes. A little. No. Anything else?

Here are the installation instructions. You can see the fronts are easy. The rears take a bit more effort, but are doable step by step.

http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/clarity/2018/splashguards.pdf

The aerodynamic effect seems minimal, hence my guess that there is no effect on mpg (more certain of that at low speeds).

 

I think I finally get why they have us cut that little rectangle out of the rear inner fender for the rear splash guards installation. I notice that where the other pre-existing screw goes through, they had already cut an enlarged hole there, much larger than the diameter of the screw threaded portion.

My thought is that because the inner fender adsorbent material holds so much water, the cutout may just be to keep that metal screw and fastener clip from sitting in water for extended periods of time, for corrosion prevention.

 

Have you found the splash guards are large enough to keep the sides of your Clarity clean?

 

Mine only seem to work at “grime mitigation” at the rear bottom of the wheel well area. I’m hoping they stop small hard stuff from giving me road rash. I still get dirt on the sides of the doors. To all those who complain about keeping a black Clarity clean; just try keeping a white one clean! Sigh.

 

yes, they are amazing. Probably as much aerodynamic deflection action, as direct blocking. $59 plus shipping from College hills honda.

Never bothered with mud flaps / splash guards before, but even though they look relatively small and thin, they do the job. So much so that (other than for aftermarket sales) it is difficult to understand why don't just put them on all Claritys at the factory.

First time around (solar silver) I got these awful wide fan shaped salt patterns on the side doors; problem solved by the splash guards.

 

My car had them since new, so I don’t know how much difference they make. My red car is white with salt on the sides and rear. It’s been a rough winter for the roads and cars here in Lansing because of all the ice and with temps too cold for washing. This next winter blast will add another layer of salt, splash guards or not. My hope is they keep stones from damaging paint, not so much with preventing side splash.

 

They eliminated most of the mud splashing up on the sides of the car. I'm pretty satisfied with them. As others had said installation of the front guards is easy, but the rears are more of a challenge. I definitely recommend that you have a small Philips ratcheted screwdriver available to deal with the tight spacing in the rear.

 

My white one stays fairly clean. My came with splash guards installed. Plugs underneath weren't, but splash guards were! Lol

Oh...my primary work is 3.2 miles from my house. Exactly half way on my way home is my car wash. Unlimited. $21.99/ month. Let's say that I get my monies worth!

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The splash guards do not keep the side of the car clean. Mine turns salt white too (upstate, NY). What they do amazingly well is to stop the wheel discharge stream from directly splashing onto and across the sides of the front doors. Without the guards, there is a distinct fan shaped mud or salt pattern on both front doors, possibly an erosion issue long term. Otherwise, it's just more of mess (without guards) compared to "normal" dirt / mud / salt coatings with the guards.

Agree on a right angle ratchet driver. Years back at the lab, many techs had these relatively expensive little kits, I think "Chapman" tool sets in yellow fold open plastic boxes. A quick google shows similar right angle ratchets now for $8!

I have a big floor jack, and almost just took the rear wheels off to get more room this time. Then I realized that my stubby with reversible tips comes apart. I used a large plastic trim removal tool to press the end part with the bit into the screw by pressing against the tire. Then, I used a little 3/8 inch open end wrench to turn it, gently pulling trim the trim tool against the tire as the screw went in. I worked surprising well.

Also, it is probably best to avoid the power driver on these. The screw heads are relatively soft and get marked up pretty easy if the bit slips out. I used the driver gently on the outer ones, but it really takes a lot of care not to leave marks. The threads are relatively course, it is almost as easy to just put them in with a regular screw driver.