110v charger

The chargers uses 11 amp max. I measured it

 

The manual says it needs to be on it's own circuit. Having said that we used the 110V charger for a few weeks, plugged into a socket shared with a power strip that had several things plugged into it.

 

It will likely trip the breaker.

When a fridge compressor starts up it draws a lot of current. Around 10A but only for about 10 seconds then the fridge uses about 1/2 that or less to continue cooling.

Your charger will pull around 11A. Meaning for continuous load the circuit can handle 1A more of draw or up to 4 more for a short time.

Fridge will exceed that for sure.

But you could run fridge to cool contents, unplug for a couple hours while you charge, then stop charging and cool fridge back down.

If you aren’t opening fridge you likely will be able to get 1/2 charge in per fridge unplug cycle.


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A different question on this 110v charger: Can it support 240v?

I've read on another forum that the bundled 110v charger for the Chevy Volt can support 240v, but it wasn't advertised by the manufacturer. It came with the standard 110v plug-in cable. Someone has figured out that it has the same circuit board as another 240v charger and was able to convert to a Level 2 charger by replacing the plug-in cord. You can find YouTube video on how this is done.

I am not saying that I would do this... but just wonder if it might be the same with Honda's 110v charger.

 

I have a deep freezer that is plugged into the outlet that also charges the car. Never had an issue and it’s been over two months now.

 

Deep freezer should run around 5A.


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Any chance that is a 20A circuit?


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Nope. It’s 15 amp. I put in a new GFCI outlet before I started charging the car. Noticed that the wires are 12 gauge so they could support a 20 amp outlet if I updated the circuit. I will measure the amps of the freezer tonight and get back to you.

 

Okay first picture is the start of the car charging. Voltage peaks for the first 10 seconds and then settles at the levels in the second picture for the remainder of the charging session. 3rd picture is the freezer. Amps peak for the first 3 seconds then come way day for remainder of the time running. These measurements were taken while both were plugged in and running. So technically you would be exceeding the rated amps as Mike stated and an electrician would not recommend. If I were in your situation, I would hesitate to charge not knowing the wiring situation. Like I said before, my wiring is 12 gauge which is a step higher than what is needed for a 15 amp. Also before I put the GFC plug back into the wall, I took temperature readings of the plug itself while under load from both the freezer and the car with my laser temperature gun. I also took readings of the temp of the specific wire where it enters the circuit board (even though the wire is insulated I was looking for any fluctuations in temperature). No warm temps and no spikes. So I am comfortable with my setup but you never know about other people’s.