All my devices (phones, Kindles, computers, iPads) need to be shut down and restarted occasionally to run properly. It's probably the same with cars whose systems are completely controlled by the onboard computer. The big question is whether we will get regular systems updates to fix bugs and improve the software.
Dealership has gotten back to me: error code P26A3 - Electric Water Valve Malfunction. Their troubleshooting documentation lists reset the system and test drive vehicle to see if error comes back up again. If error resumes, then may need to replace valve component. They've cleared the OBD and no further sign of error, so I'll be retrieving my vehicle shortly. Hopefully this is a one off.
Ditto problem with warning lights, ACC brake system, Check engine light and RDM system, coming on. The first time, I called the dealership for appointment. The service personnel didn't have any appointments for that day and told me to wait a couple of days and call back if it persisted. Sure enough, everything returned to normal after couple of days. It happened again today! This time, it went again after a few errands. Both time occurred after prolong AC use (live in Phoenix!). Hopefully, somebody at Honda will come up with a fix for this annoying (potential dangerous)problems!!!
I'd recommend NOT ignoring these situations with multiple warning messages. My car was towed to the dealer & the service tech handling my car says the problem is the "big battery, which needs to be replaced." Honda does not recommend I drive the car in case the battery might fail while I am driving. I am currently driving a rental car while waiting for a new battery with no ETA on the part. Not too happy about this but at some level think this is the price of beta testing. Still love my car and missing the tremendous efficiency now that I am back to driving an ICE. For what it's worth, I have about 4000 miles on my car.
Can you please share any error codes or specific details from the technicians which led them to this conclusion? Would be helpful for anyone else down the line to troubleshoot their own errors.
I would be happy to share. Embarrassed to say I don't know what they are but I will get them & report them here.
So these warnings pop up while you are driving? Mine showed up when I started the car. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Yes, I was just driving when suddenly it started showing messages. This was the one day I didn't use the cruise. I actually have a little over 1700 miles on it. I disconnected the battery ground for a minute. It had to re-initialize everything. The HV range figure went back to the 300s, after the reset, when it was in the 700s.
update...as posted, last Tuesday, my warning lights came on the 2nd time. After a few trips, the lights return to normal. However, a days later, I tried turning on the ACC and found it to be nonfunctional but everything else is normal!!! Have appointment with dealer tomorrow AM. Will post result...
Just spoke to the dealer. The codes were U0401-68 and U0416-68. One referenced the driver support system & the other the electric sensor brake system. Still no ETA on the battery. Might have to be a squeaky wheel.
Finally getting close to closure on my Clarity Touring battery issues. Heard from the dealer today that the battery will arrive at the dealership tomorrow. Having never done it before, they can't tell me how long it will take to swap out the old battery for the new. Hope to be driving my car again by the weekend.
Swapping out the traction battery is a really big deal. I certainly hope this is an isolated incident. Sorry it happened to you.
In April 2018, I purchased my Clarity Hybrid EV and have experienced this same series of fault warnings twice now. Although I would rather that there were no issues with this vehicle, I am extremely happy that I found this forum with others experiencing the same problem. So, I'm not the only one having this issue as the deal says...shoo! I have attached some photos of the dash, showing the crazy sequence of faults being displayed. At this point, I think that K8QM has the best guess at what is causing this problem. I was also considering the possibility that wiring harness could be faulty, although it would be strange for it to be affecting so many cars. My second guess is that this is a firmware issue, as I have seen this before with my 2015 Dodge Promaster Eco Diesel. I found the best info for the Promaster on the Promaster forum, including a service bulletin that the dealer was not aware of. From what I have read it looks like there are NO solutions at this time, but we are all hoping that Honda will get this figured this out soon. By the way, I love this car and hope that a solution is coming soon.
It's been about 6 weeks now and this has not reoccurred. I've only done one thing differently and certainly can't prove that it has helped... I had gotten in the habit of getting in the car, pressing the POWER button and hen would immediately release the emergency brake and start pressing drive or reverse. I now press power, then put on the seatbelt while waiting for the system to finish "booting" before I get all button happy. It certainly seems possible that I was causing a condition that some system were essentially bypassing their initial check causing the warnings to activate but I have not been able to replicate the failure. geo
I don't want to cause this to return for you, but so far my two occurrences have happened when I first push the power button regardless of whether I'm moving out immediately or not. You may be just getting lucky, but keep the ideas and feedback coming! Thanks I'm betting that Honda will eventually come out with a firmware update that will make this problem go away.
It happened to me again, so I called my Dealer's service manager to let him know about these faults and this forum. He said that he'd do some research on this. After trying a "hard reset," by disconnecting the battery negative cable all of the faults cleared, although during the car's reboot process several other faults displayed then eventually cleared. I told the dealer about my hard reset experience, then he told me that when they do this at the dealership they disconnect both the positive and the negative cables, then the short them together for some amount of time. This is to dissipate any residual voltages in the system. All is back to normal for now.
I don't know if the connection from the high voltage system to the 12V system is disconnected when the POWER is off but if not don't you have 17kW of battery through a DC to DC converter to those cables he says to short? I can believe doing that short test on an ICE vehicle but that seems dubious with a HV or PHEV. geo
Geo, Please set me straight - What is an ICE vehicle? I think the HV system and the 12Vdc LV system are completely separate and therefore shorting should not be an issue. That said, since you mentioned this caution, prior to shorting anything I will check it with a voltmeter to see if there is any voltage present. SolarBoss
ICE is Internal Combustion Engine - so, only a 12V battery. The Clarity 12V system charges from the High Voltage system (there is no alternator). geo