Valve adjustment

My 2020, 25 months since I bought it with 16 miles on it, now has 33,108 miles.

Weekly commuting mileage is ~110 miles now, was ~22 miles for the first 8 months (WFH 4 days a week). Big mile trips, 6200 miles in 28 days when Mom died in March, 21 and 5200 miles in 18 days in August/September for trip to Chicago. Beyond those, I work races at tracks around the northwest, average 2 weekends a month April-October. Closest one is a 120 mile round trip, others are 450-700 mile round trips

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Not to dig up an old post, but I want to learn how to do this adjustment myself. I found this information on one of Honda's parts websites, and it specifies the adjustment stud bolt on both the intake and exhaust sides.

Has anyone been able to find any more information on the proper clearance and torque specs for a Clarity lash adjustment?

 

See attached... Does this seem to fill in the gaps?

 

Thank you for the information. This is very useful. Is this from alldatadiy?

 

Yes

 

Thank you very much. It seems to me that the previously attached document may not be correct since it references hydraulic lifters on the exhaust, which would seem to be manual adjustment based on the engineering drawing from Hondafactoryparts. It does worry me that the clearance spec is not the same.

Have you adjusted your valves to the clearance specs in that attached document?

 

I think you are referring to Post #16... You are right, that is certainly suspect. @SR2K states that it comes from Honda's iN network, but I believe you are right that the Clarity has no hydraulic lifters so I wouldn't trust it. As further evidence of this, I found a Clarity cylinder head for sale on eBay and it clearly shows all manual adjustments. Have a look:



So, I agree, that the document in Post #16 is unreliable. Beyond that, I can't vouch for the specific numbers shown in the 'alldatadiy' document. But, even though the numbers in the 'bad' document are indeed different, they are pretty close and actually overlap. The 1st document shows 0.18 - 0.22 mm for intake and the 'alldatadiy' shows 0.21 - 0.25 mm. If it were me, I would just go by the 'alldatadiy' and nominally set the intake to 0.009" and the the exhaust in the 0.010" to 0.011" range.

No, I have not done this... I only have ~40K miles and don't hear any valve noise yet.
Why do you feel that your car needs this? Do you hear some noise? How many miles do you have?

If you do launch into this, please report back with lesson's learned from the whole process. It seems fairly involved.

 

I have a little over 220,000 miles on the car (150,000 HV?), and decided to change the spark plugs.

I was getting misfires in cylinders 1 and 3 when RPM was over 4,000.

I had purchased plugs from Rock Auto about a year ago, and never put them in. I could not find those plugs, so I bought new ones from a local Honda dealer.

 

@ClarityBill
Just curious - What the heck do you do with this car to rack up 220K miles in ~5 years?
The old plugs were definitely due for replacement by the looks of them. I presume the new plugs 'fixed' the misfires?

 

@ClarityBill, did the Rock Auto plugs magically appear right after you purchased new ones from your Honda dealer? That's how I usually find things that went missing.

 

I am self-employed, and I travel for work. I have been 'plant engineer' for a couple small dairy processors in upstate New York.

Instead of sitting in hotel rooms at night, I go visit my kids, or go work on their rental properties.

I have only driven a couple hundred miles with the new plugs, but I did get over 4K RPM a couple times, so it seems like my problem is solved.

I figure the Rock Auto plugs will show up after I sell the car...

 

Just for information:
When I got the misfire error: The check engine light would flash. The engine locked about 1500 RPM, and would not shut off when there was no charging need. I could not go to EV mode, even with over 50% battery. The engine would also not speed up when there was load on the battery.

I shut off the car and the engine would stop. When I restarted the car, the check engine light did not flash, the engine responded properly until I had the misfire error again. As long as I stayed below 4K RPM, the car drove properly - EV mode or HV mode: Charging battery and shutting off the engine when not needed. I used HV reset to keep RPM below 4K.