Got a rust bubble on the edge of the trunk lid. not covered by warranty. What do the forum experts recommend? ( I have the crimson spray paint and clear coat spray and tools - the bubble has not broken through.) I know I need to grind down to bare rust free metal; I have some rust convertor that I could then use first before primer, filler, primer, base coat and clear coat. Thanks in advance John PS 67,000 km 2018, not other spots that I have seen
Just curious precisely where this is located. There is a lot of aluminum in this body. I just went out and checked my trunk lid with a magnet, and found it is aluminum. The quarter-panel just beyond the lid is steel. I suggest that you test the area with a magnet to be sure it is steel. Your bubble may not be rust at all. You will still need to deal with it somehow, getting down to bare metal, etc. but the proper procedure may differ if this is on an aluminum panel.
You intend to DIY spot repair this? If you’re not an experienced automotive painter, prep yourself for disappointing results…leaving the bubble alone may be better than the final appearance of a spot paint repair. I suggest a visit to a good body shop for estimate/opinion. And aluminum panels can corrode and bubble paint too, just like steel. Sometimes worse and faster…and they take special tools and repair and paint procedures that are completely different from steel.
Thanks guys - this is a great forum..... Yes - it is aluminum! (I knew the car was a lot of aluminum; but hadn't considered it here) bubble attahched
Yes Landshark, but the operative word is 'perforation' and I am pretty sure it won't perforate in the next 2 years! Trying to find info on how to fix it has proven to be very difficult - "easy" (not) on steel; and I did ok on plastic; but can't find a definitive explanation for aluminum. As I am not going to sell the car; I won't mind if I don't 'match' perfectly; but trying to find out what to prep the clean aluminum with before doing the rest has been a chore. My dealer was actually very helpful - but bodywork is not their business.
This kind of sucks -- Only covers "Rust Perforation" --> But, I would argue that this bubble is NOT 'Rust" damage at all. It seems to me that it is a manufacturing paint defect. Of course even that may not apply beyond 3Y /36K miles.
Of course. It’s always the bare minimum, even though there is obviously a defect in workmanship or manufacturing. It wouldn’t happen on a properly prepped and painted vehicle. And, it has to perforate from the inside out. So, if you touched it with your finger, out of curiosity, and burst the bubble, you’d be SOL.
Honda sells touch up paint pens for ~$12. At least they did for my civic that I sold when I bought my clarity. You might want to look into that.
A couple intros to aluminum repairs: https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/collision-repair/body-shop-and-repair/article/21193578/the-why-and-how-of-aluminum-repair-procedures More comprehensive: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/applications/aluminum-shop/ Most important pay attention to the contamination info…for example never use a tool that has been used on steel, on aluminum. Never touch bare aluminum with your hands, don’t leave bare aluminum exposed to atmosphere longer than an hour, etc. I still recommend paying an aluminum-experienced body shop if you want the repair to last. And as a bonus the end result will look better.
Thanks for the info - I used my dremel with a clean sand drum.. there was white aluminum oxide underneath.. sanded it clear; degreased, and acetone, and coated it as a temporary fix, it is small enough and hidden enough (bottom lip of trunk lid) that I should be able to get away with a spot fix - wont' be perfect but will stop anything more for whatever time it lasts. I have touch up and spray.. essentially doing what the 3M site suggests. I was surprised as to how deep the corrosion had go will have to use a little glaze on it. Attached photo of the oxide - it extends a little onto the lip and is fairly deep.
