Here you go... Also, if you click on the installation guide link, it will show you the complete detail pic of the hitch.
Looks fantastic! What's the final damage - hitch and installation total? Does the hitch get hidden under the cladding with the cut out? Was thinking of ordering the curt and doing it myself but this actually looks a lot cleaner to be honest. I don't like how the previous curt install left some gabs in the cladding and it didn't seem to "close up" nicely. I want the hitch to look like it came from factory.
To those of you who've installed trailer hitches for bike racks: I've noticed that the Curt 11529 installation instructions specify that loads not supported by wheels -- ie bike racks -- must use stabilizing straps (top of page 5). Did you do anything about that, or do you think it's safe to ignore?
Here's the inv copy. I usually install hitches myself, but this one required some customization on the EV model, so was glad to let them do it. They did a nice job though, with cutting out the plastic only as required to make a nice tight clean job.
Yes, I would say that is a must for any 1 1/4 hitch if you are using a bike rack or cargo carrier. Even a good idea for 2" receivers, more to support the rack/carrier tongue than for the hitch. I had some straps and flat hooks from past carriers and was able to make one work. Just had to drill a hole in the top of the vertical post. Here is the Curt strap for reference. https://www.curtmfg.com/part/18050 And lots of places where you can buy flat hooks if you already have a strap. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWR4354610
Thanks for the reply. I'm having trouble picturing how the strap hooks on to the car, though -- the only place it could go would be in the panel gap between the hatch and the roof, right? But then it has to go over the spoiler-like trim above the rear glass (where the high-mount brake light is located) and then angles downward towards the bike rack, which makes me really nervous. That body piece is plastic, isn't it? It can't be all that tough... Can the strap effectively secure the bike rack without putting way too much stress on that trim?
Yes, the flat hook is vinyl coated, so won't damage your paint. And the hatch door top (not sure if it is plastic) is plenty strong for the intended job. There are some bike carriers that only connect to that with two straps, no hitch, and carry the full weight of the bikes. In this case it only supports the carrier attached to the top of the vertical post. It does not carry a lot of weight.
FYI: The U-Haul hitch is the same as the Curt hitch. I ordered it and even though the label on the receiver is "U-Haul", the box it came in has the Curt logo all over it.
I'd like to give a big THANK YOU to Dag Lindquist. I provided your photos with annotations to San Diego Trailer Supply. They installed the Draw-Tite #24976 on my Kona Electric yesterday. I installed a Yakima Two Timer rack. If you are in the San Diego area and need to have this done. Contact Big Dave or Greg at San Diego Trailer Supply.
Thanks to al you early adopters for the info, I am about to do this as well. A couple of questions: What happens to the parking sensors when you mount this, do you get alarms when the rear bumper "sees" the obstruction of the rack? Also how badly does the rack block your tail lights from other cars seeing you are braking? We have a lot of bumper to bumper traffic and I just see myself getting rear ended from lack of visibility. Thanks again for all the photos!
Great questions. None of which I have an exact answer for. Here is my speculation. Light from brake lights will not be fully obstructed unless you are carrying a wall on your bike rack. The rack itself is mounted below the level of the lowest light and the Kona has lights at 3 levels. Light will easily pass through spokes, rims, frames, etc... Sensors usually detect change over zones. Since your rack and bike(s) are stationary, I doubt that the sensors will 'see' them. It is possible that a sensor may become slightly blinded by the rack or bike(s). I plan on using traditional driving techniques, aka Looking over both shoulders.
The backup sensor on my Kona basically lets out a constant tone when in reverse while the bike rack is installed into the hitch receiver. It's not a huge deal though as I don't do much driving in reverse other than backing out of spots.
That's when you need them the most: https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/things-i-dont-like.5690/page-2#post-62569
I finally made it out to our local UHaul trailer installation centre to have my hitch installed! They did a phenomenal job on the installation. It's very clean and looks factory-installed. I'm extremely happy with the outcome! Total cost was only $210 CAD. I found this to be extremely reasonable.
No, I couldn't find any reference in the manual to voiding a warranty. When I called a few dealers they all stated that there's no official recommended towing capacity, but never mentioned anything about voiding the warranty. The way I look at it - I'm not installing any wiring harness. It's simply for a bike rack. If for whatever reason the question ever came up and they accused me of "towing" with my vehicle. I can always fall back on my lack of wiring harness as "proof", because you can't legally tow anything without brake lights and turn signals.
They also would have to prove that whatever mod you made to your vehicle caused the failure. Same with doing your own oil changes (maybe not on our EV,... haha) or other routine maintenance. However, if you added a turbo, you might be on thin "ICE"...